Rock. Opera.

National Geographic Traveler Art Director Jerry Sealy just returned from a two-week trip to Italy–avoiding the tourist crowds of Venice and Florence in favor of Orvieto, Assisi, Bologna, and Verona.

Since 1913, the charming northern Italian city of Verona has hosted a summer season of world-class opera in the Arena di Verona, the beautifully preserved Roman outdoor amphitheater dating to A.D. 30. Each evening from June through August, hundreds of cast members perform classic works by Puccini, Verdi or Rossini in a setting that New York’s Metropolitan Opera would envy.

Even a complete opera neophyte like I am couldn’t help but be wowed by the staging, performances–or the ancient aura. Arena productions go back to the days of gladiators. While bloodshed and violence may be a thing of the past, the high drama remains–hearing a diva’s passionate aria, or seeing 75 soldiers (in the cast)

flanking the steps high above the stage with lit torches. (Oh, and the white horses on stage were a nice touch, too).

For the most authentic Italian experience, skip main floor seating (very red carpet–with prices to match) and purchase a ticket for the unreserved stone steps. (prices begin at 21 euros) Views are spectacular. Be sure to pick up a pizza or antipasti from a nearby trattoria off Piazza Bra’, pack some wine (no glass allowed), and buy two-euro seat cushions from one of the many vendors outside the Arena (after three hours on marble steps I was glad I did). You’ll be surrounded by a crowd of enthusiastic patrons in clad in capris and cargo pants, but who needs Armani?

This is opera for Everyman.

Verona’s Opera Festival runs through August 30, 2009 and resumes again next June. For ticketing and general information visit www.arena.it.

You can reach Verona by rail from Venice or Bologna in one hour or less.

One-way tickets cost about 7 euros. www.trenitalia.com

Photo: Jerry Sealy