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Good Slice in Good Hope

Nick Fitzhugh and Pete Muller are in South Africa for the 2010 World Cup, working on a documentary series about the cultural significance of soccer in the country. They’re blogging about their experiences for us here at Intelligent Travel. Previously, Muller shared his attempt to try a South African natural remedy. See Fitzhugh’s first post here.

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Talk about off the beaten path.

I’ve been working in Alexandra township (Alex) in Johannesburg, South Africa, for a week now. Approximately 1.5 million people live in the four square kilometers that comprise Alex. Most of these people are South African, a growing number are Nigerian, Mozambican, or Zimbabwean immigrants. I have yet to see another white person.

This is probably a result of Alex’s reputation as a crime haven. Guide books tell you not to roll down your car windows. They tell you that you need to visit townships like Alex as a part of an official tour. Beware car jacking and smash and grab theft, they say. Don’t stop your car in busy areas. Definitely do NOT flash camera equipment, cell phones, money, etc.

I was understandably nervous, therefore, the first time I was driven into Alex. My window was definitely up all the way. I removed my wristwatch and stowed it in my camera bag that I kept hidden in the trunk. My cash, credit card, and ATM card were in my front pockets.


Paved for the first time about a decade ago, Alex’s tiny streets are

arranged in a neat grid between the shanties that house a vast majority

of the residents. Cars creep up over the curbs and park at varying

angles on the sidewalks. Mostly flat, road-dirtied soccer balls dance

from foot to foot, bounce this way and that, and ricochet off walls,

cars, and passersby balancing food from the market on their heads.

Our car flows through this human river at a walking pace. Our

driver’s window is down all the way within minutes as an old friend

leans into the car to say a warm hello to all of us and invite us to

her place for tea. The vitality in Alex is unlike anything I

have ever seen. Yes, I may as well be ten feet tall for all the stares

I receive, but they’re almost always accompanied by warm smiles.

We walk the streets now with our camera equipment and are propositioned

regularly by aspiring actors who’ve heard about our movie and want to

be in it! Good thing too or else, among other reasons, I wouldn’t have

been able to provide a picture as salivating as the one at the top of this post!

Get a load of that sandwich. Have you ever seen anything so towering? Quite so colorful?

A slice of cheese. A couple of polony (beef) slices. A heaping mountain

of chips (fries). Generous, dripping spoonfuls of achar (a rough puree

of peppers, chilies, and mango). Garlic spice. Chips spice. Mustard

sauce. Garlic sauce. One Russian (sausage) split lengthwise. Sandwich

that between two slices of white bread and try (hard) to squeeze your

lips around it.

This is courtesy of the best place for eats in Alex–the Good Hope

Restaurant. In South Africa it’s called a slice. This particular

version costs 13.50 rand ($1.75), which you just can’t beat. As you can

see, it’s damn popular.

Welcome to Alex.

Photo and Video: Nick Fitzhugh

Comments

  1. Global Granny
    July 10, 2010, 12:56 pm

    “…Beware car jacking and smash and grab theft, they say. Don’t stop your car…”
    Ack! Still the same ol’ racist (yes, RACIST for there’s no 2 ways about it) claptrap, I see. Still the fear-mongering drivel from guidebooks, etc. (no doubt all spewed from folks of a certain pale hue).
    Please people! I was there in 2005 – a single solo 60 yr. old lass – backpacked my way for 6 weeks across the entire country, from Johannesburg all the way to Cape Town. Hopping about via the ubiquitous, jam-packed min-vans (the only pale face in sight). Even spent the night with a charming family in Soweto.
    All with nary a single threat to my precious vanilla life and limb (shoot, my surname’s even “Kruger”!)
    Indeed, the guidebooks warned of dire horrors for such recklessness, and sadder still, every blessed pale face that I met, shuddered and repeatedly admonished me that I’d surely be robbed or killed along the way!
    UTTER NONSENSE.
    As a traveler, the crime in Johannesburg, etc. poses no more a risk than in any other urban area of the world. I don’t foolishly skip through the streets at night in downtown Seattle (with gobs of sparkly jewelry and spiffy technos hanging about my neck), and likewise wouldn’t dream of doing such in J-burg, Durban, nor Paris or Copenhagen for that matter.
    Sorry to rant here, but that I’m still hearing such nonsense about RSA just makes my (yes, descended from mis-guided bigots) blood boil.
    Seriously, such persistent fear-mongering about the dangers of traveling in RSA only perpetuates the (hopefully final, waning) vestiges of the evil “A” word.
    Please people. As travelers it is up to us not to fall prey to such media fear-mongering. As the author here (thanks, Pete!) once again proves – don’t swallow such claptrap out of hand. Go there yourself. Take the usual sensible traveler precautions that you’d take in Chicago or New York, and trust that you’ll find that (like anywhere else on the Planet), the vast majority of fine RSA folk will threaten you only with bright smiles and the warmest of friendly hospitality.

  2. bath pillows
    July 10, 2010, 8:24 pm

    The system of Apartheid was designed to entrench white minority rule and racial segregation
    in South Africa. It was characterized by highly racist economic inequality and by large-scale
    social engineering to ensure the subjugation of black South Africans who make up 80% of
    the country’s population. Although the Apartheid system only existed formally from 1960 to
    1990, it was build on a legacy of 200 years of white colonial rule, and rested on strong
    foundations of racial exclusion and economic exploitation, which had been established by
    successive generations of Dutch and British colonists. Popular resistance to colonialism and
    Apartheid was led by the African National Congress (ANC), which was formed in 1912 and
    banned by the Apartheid government in 1960. Apartheid was declared a crime against
    humanity by the United Nations, and a large-scale international campaign developed to
    isolate the South African government and support the ANC and other liberation movements.
    One of the key features of the Apartheid system was the racial organisation of the state, with
    the security institutions similarly organised – the South African Police and judiciary were
    dominated by white officers at the senior level. South Africa under Apartheid was notorious
    for the brutality of the security forces and the widespread violation of human rights. Over the
    30 years of formal Apartheid (1960 – 1990) an estimated 78 000 people were detained
    without trial by the police, because of their political activism against Apartheid, and 73
    deaths in police detention were recorded. In the last years of the system, security forces
    were responsible for high levels of torture, extra-judicial executions, and disappearances of
    pro-democracy activists.
    The enforcement of racist and unpopular laws created a profound crisis of legitimacy for the
    criminal justice system in South Africa. In many respects, the police played a military role, by
    crushing popular protest in South Africa’s de-facto civil war, as well as being deployed in
    support of white regimes against independence struggles in neighbouring states. Under
    successive Apartheid governments, the police, intelligence service, and the military vied for
    political dominance and greater slices of the national budget. By the late 1980′s, the
    Apartheid state was in severe crisis, forcing the police, the military, and the bureaucracy to
    devise joint strategies to defeat the liberation movements, and an integrated National
    Security Management Systems (NSMS) was established to oversee the successive ‘States of
    Emergency’ that were declared after 1985. By 1986 the police and the army began to
    implement their counter-revolutionary strategy, with the aim of destroying the ANC and its
    allies, and restoring initiative to the state. The strategy entailed establishing a firm police and
    army presence in the townships and suppressing protest and or resistance; ‘taking out’
    leadership through mass detentions, trails, harassments and assassinations; re-establishing
    intelligence networks; the ‘counter-organisation’ of communities through setting up groups
    with links to the security forces, the use of vigilantes; and the alleviation of socio-economic
    grievances through the upgrading of selected trouble spots… nearly 30,000 people were
    detained in 1986.
    The period of repression further cemented the alienation of the police from the majority
    black population. Police officers were not just unpopular; they were the targets of abuse
    and violence from pro-democracy quarters

  3. Philippine Travel Guide
    July 10, 2010, 10:13 pm

    The food looks good and you really went all the trouble just to get a hold of it. And good to hear that it’s not at all dangerous to visit alexandra

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    HOW NICE THE FOOD IS