Planet Forward: Smart people, smart iedas. Online and on TV.

Walking South West England

By Ellen Barone

The sun, the hills, the clotted cream. There’s nothing as existentially refreshing as a slow walk through the English countryside. For eight June days, I strapped on my hiking boots for a coast-to-coast ramble with The Wayfarers across South West England, where the food is local, the air crisp, and the hilltop views make the miles seem easy.

Among the many reasons to join a guided walk are the opportunities to learn from local experts, each hand-selected for their unique insights, knowledge, and passion for a region. Here are five walk highlights I might never have experienced as an independent traveler.

1. D-Day secrets

Our first morning, on the 67th Anniversary of D-Day, began on a somber note at Slapton Sands beach, the center of operations for Exercise Tiger, code name for a super-secret full-scale rehearsal in 1944 for the invasion of Normandy. In remembrance of the 946 American servicemen tragically killed in the exercise, Wayfarers’ walk manager, Jamie Daniell, a retired career officer in the British Army, recited For the Fallen, a moving poem by the English poet and writer Laurence Binyon.

2. Cob art

Rural England is full of the eccentric characters that embody country life. At Burrow Farm, a remote Dartmoor farmstead near Drewsteignton, we meet up with Jackie Abey and Jill Smallcombe, a dynamic, artistic duo specializing in the art and craft of cob architecture, a traditional building mixture of subsoil, straw, and water. Encrusted in a fine layer of dust, the beautiful Jill and Jackie are not your average gray-haired, storybook grandmothers. Rather, the vivacious twosome spend their days transforming crumbling piles of 200-year-old walls and heaps of excavated earth into commissioned sculptures, National Trust renovations, and massive public works projects. It was impressive to see how the pair has turned playing in the dirt into a highly successful creative pursuit.

3. Medieval Hound Tor

In Widecombe-in-the-Moor we were met by cultural environmentalist, Dr. Tom Greeves for a steep climb across the wide expanses of Dartmoor National Park to the site of Hound Tor, one of the best-preserved examples of a medieval village in England. Tom, a professional observer of modern and ancient Dartmoor residents, traditions and customs, brought alive the longhouse architecture and agrarian lifestyle of the inhabitants who lived there at least 900 years ago.

4. Folk singing

Later that night, at the New Inn in Coleford, a charming 13th-century Free House, we were joined for dinner, drinks, and dancing by Dartmoor folk singer, Bill Murray, and an impromptu band of local musicians. Jolly, unassuming, and hospitable, Bill filled us in between songs on the music’s provenance: Each character and verse traced back to a Dartmoor community like wine is to a vineyard.

5. Exmoor magic

There is something magical and monumental about walking in Exmoor National Park, where Britain’s oldest breed of pony runs wild. Or to stand on the same stretch of track where, in 1797, Samuel Taylor Coleridge composed his great poem ‘Kubla Khan,’ until interrupted by a Person from Porlock. So, the final descent into Porlock felt like a fitting end to our moorland walk. Especially since one last clotted cream tea awaited us.

The Wayfarers offer small-group eco-aware walking holidays in 14 countries; www.thewayfarers.com800- 249-4620.

Ellen Barone is a freelance photojournalist specializing in travel. For travel news, tips and reviews, visit her website at EllenBarone.com.

 

Comments

  1. PeggyCoonley/SerendipityTraveler
    USA
    July 19, 2011, 11:28 am

    An advocate of the serendipitous joys of traveling in a small group i heartily concur with Ellen’s thoughts.Walking in the countryside around the world is a delightful way to experience the local way of life and immerse yourself in the wondrous landscapes, villages and people.

  2. Ellen Barone
    July 19, 2011, 5:17 pm

    Kindest thanks, Peggy. Your trips have tempted me for years. Hope to meet up on the trail one day soon.

    Happy trails,

    Ellen

  3. Caroline at Lee House
    Lynton
    July 20, 2011, 5:59 am

    What a fantastic walk! Next time you visit Exmoor, we recommend you include the picturesque twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth joined by the famous Victorian built cliff railway. The villages are ideally located for several legs of the South West Coast Path, the Two Moors Way, Samaritans Way and other beautiful country walks. Oh yes, and there are also plenty of opportunities for a ‘cream tea’!

  4. Bill Muray
    Dartmoor
    July 20, 2011, 5:18 pm

    Thanks for your report and pictures Ellen, it was great to meet you and to watch our American friends cope skillfully with the art of the Dartmoor Broom Dance! If anyone reading this is in Devon over the weekend of 6th – 8th August come along to the Dartmoor Folk Fetival at South Zeal, Devon to see the old traditions of Dartmoor Broom Dancing and Step Dancing plus other local dance, music and song. http://www.dartmoorfolkfestival.co.uk

  5. Lyn Anderson
    Delaware, USA
    July 21, 2011, 7:31 am

    Your photographs are exquisite, Ellen. This trip is on my “To Do” list.

  6. Ellen Barone
    July 25, 2011, 9:28 am

    Bill,

    Many thanks for sharing the festival details. Wish I could be there to join the fun. Maybe next year!

    Lyn,
    Your kind comments are very much appreciated. Hope you do add the trip to your travel plans. I know you’d love it.

    Ellen

  7. Wendy Kersman
    Muskegon, MI, USA
    August 11, 2011, 1:58 pm

    Wonderful comments about the trip, Ellen, and so true. It was great to relive it a little through your words and photos. Three of us will return to Wayfarers and England in 2011 for a new adventure, but this walk will remain a personal highlight.
    Wendy