The Brighter Side of Naples

Face it—Naples is likely not the first destination to come to mind when planning a trip to Italy. I take that back—you may decide to go to Naples, but only as a jumping-off point for Capri or the Amalfi Coast. I mean, grit, grime, and crime are not the best calling cards for tourism.

So imagine my surprise, on a recent trip there, when I discover a dynamic, architecturally and artistically interesting city with enough world-class sights to keep me occupied for days. The city has devoted itself to cleaning up its act over the past decade, and while it retains elements of the old Naples (including the garbage strike that took place during my stay), today’s Naples is well on its way to reclaiming its 2,800-year birthright as one of Italy’s most important centers of art, gastronomy, architecture, and culture. Here’s a sampling of what I mean.

Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte

Inside a gorgeous neoclassical palazzo on top of a greenery-draped hill, this artistically rich national museum is notable for two reasons: Its artwork rivals that of the Prado and the Met; and there is hardly anyone there. Entire rooms are devoted to the best of the best—Caravaggio, Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Goya, El Greco, Michelangelo, even an Andy Warhol of Mount Vesuvius erupting. Bourbon King Charles VII built the palace in 1738 upon inheriting his mother’s Farnese art collection and needing a place to put it. Well, he created a glorious one.

San Gennaro Catacombs

Possessing a striking mix of paleo-Christian and Christian worship, the most important south of Rome, these recently renovated catacombs are nothing like the scary, dark, dripping-wet ones in Rome or Paris. You’ll see no bones or skulls here—thank goodness! You enter the tufa-stone labyrinth of broad, high-ceilinged passageways and vestibules, where graves carved into the floor and walls date at least as far back as the 2nd century A.D., when Christianity was just emerging. Beautifully preserved frescoes decorate some of the passageways and chapels—I was struck by one portraying a woman in black, interpreted to be a deacon and possible proof that women indeed served in the early church.

Gran Caffè Gambrinus

Italy is famous for its coffee, of course, and one of the best places to celebrate its esteemed heritage is Gambrinus, a café near the Piazza del Plebiscito that’s been beautifully restored in all its palatial, art nouveau glory. Surrounded by Empire-style caryatids and classical columns and large frescoes depicting local outdoor scenes, sip your (pricey) espresso or cappuccino just as artists, writers, and intellectuals once did, that is, until Fascist officials were alerted to the disgruntled political discussions taking place and closed its doors. The café opened again in the 1950s.

Santa Chiara Cloister

Walk behind the Gothic/baroque Santa Chiara church to the tiled cloister of the Clarisses, and you’ll be immersed in a colorful, happy world of majolica columns and benches, effervescent fountains, and flourishing orange trees, grape vines, and wisteria. I strolled around its fresco-adorned, arched ambulatory, serenaded by the otherworldly singing of a young nun, and instantly relaxed in this epitome of baroque peace and quiet in the bustling heart of the centro storico.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli

The best finds of Pompeii aren’t at Pompeii but here, 15 miles south of Naples, in this fascinating museum founded by Bourbon King Charles VII in the 1750s. Among the Pompeii treasures (as well as those from Herculaneum, Stabiae, and Cuma) are gladiator helmets, ceramics, glassware—and an amazing mosaic, measuring 215 feet square, depicting the earliest known rendition of Alexander the Great.

Lungomaro

But perhaps the best thing of all is Naples’s lungomaro, or promenade, that runs along the sparkling Bay of Naples, where I take my daily morning run—among very fit and tanned Neapolitans, no less. Off in the distance, the isle of Capri floats on the horizon, while pastel villas march up the tree-lined peninsula ahead. I run past the Castel dell’Ovo (“Egg Castle”), a medieval fortress said to have been built on a magic egg for protection; fishermen arranging their nets and others purveying their daily catch (including squiggly squids and octopuses); deeply bronzed locals sunbathing on the rocks, a few doing laps in the azure waters. As I’m panting along in the blazing sun, I have no doubt in my mind that this is the place to be.

Barbara A. Noe is a senior editor for National Geographic Books. Read her last post for Intelligent Travel, “Ghosts of Gettysburg.”

Photo: Enrica Picarelli/My Shot

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Comments

  1. RedPenArt
    http://redpenart.blogspot.com
    October 18, 2011, 4:52 am

    You’ve summed up Naples extremely well, pitch perfect in our eyes. Thank you for a brilliant read!

  2. Scrapbooking
    October 18, 2011, 8:41 am

    I want to go to Italy, and this place is a must see.

  3. Enrica Picarelli
    December 15, 2011, 12:05 pm

    Happy to find out that my picture was chosen to accompany such beautiful article!

  4. Rachel S
    Naples, Italy
    February 8, 2012, 4:21 am

    Thank you for highlighting more than just pizza in Napoli (although it IS amazing)! The locals like to say that Naples is “a beautiful woman with dirty feet”, and that seems very accurate. Unfortunately, most people traveling here only see the surface of this city – the dirty feet – or skip it entirely and jump down to Pompei/Vesuvius/Amalfi. What they don’t see are most places listed above, the amazing neighborhoods that circle extinct craters and islands, and the Neapolitan love because they tend to stay in tourist areas. The people here are amazingly warm and generous. I’ve lived here for 2 years and I hope to stay much longer. As much as each day can be frustrating, it is also an amazing adventure!

  5. Rachel S
    February 8, 2012, 4:22 am

    Also, the San Gennaro link is not working. : )

    • Leslie Trew Magraw
      February 8, 2012, 2:29 pm

      Thanks for the catch, Rachel S. The link has been updated!

  6. Stefania Papaccioli
    Amsterdam
    November 22, 2012, 5:59 am

    I am very pleased to hear that we are not the only ones to think that Naples has so much to offer!
    One little correction: lungomare ends with an “e”.
    I will post this article on our website!
    I hope you don’t mind ;-)
    Thanks

  7. Ed LeClair
    Philadelphia, PA
    January 9, 2013, 8:51 am

    The “:grit” as you say in the article is precisely what drew me to Naples for several years and made an indelible mark on my heart. It is real and not nearly as pretentious as some other parts of Italy. Naples and its people have much to offer.