Painting the Painted Desert

By Kayla Frost

From the swirly-whirly Wave to the sandstone splendor of Antelope Canyon in the Navajo Nation, the timeless natural beauty of Northern Arizona’s Painted Desert is enough to make even the oldest of folks feel really, really young.

And while the chance to experience the elegance of sacred Navajo land is worth a detour from the nearby Grand Canyon, there’s another incentive to visit: street art.

The Painted Desert project is Chip Thomas's “love letter to the Navajo Nation.” (Photograph by Aaron Lavinsky)

Much of the art — murals and giant photographs on buildings, roadside stands, and water tanks – originates from a middle-aged doctor named Chip Thomas.

Thomas moved to the Navajo Nation 25 years ago to repay a National Health Service Corps scholarship by volunteering his skills in a community with limited healthcare. After making good on his four-year obligation (and spending the better part of a year biking 12,000 miles across Africa), Chip returned to the reservation, and has worked as a family-care physician there ever since.

But when the working day is done, Dr. Thomas shrugs off the lab coat to become Jetsonorama – a street artist who pastes his blown-up black-and-white photos depicting Navajo people and their traditions on any structure visible from the road, a public art project he describes as a “love letter to the Navajo Nation.”

“I’m just trying to reflect the positivity I have been allowed to experience from the people for the past 25 years,” Chip says. “It’s like I’m holding a mirror up and saying, ‘Thank you for letting me experience all this.’ And to the youth I’m saying, ‘Learn from this!’”

Chip invites street artists from around the world to put up their art on the reservation and plots each installation on a Google map. He calls this collaboration, which he started this spring, the Painted Desert Project.

One of Overunder's contributions to the Painted Desert project. (Photograph by Aaron Lavinsky)

“I like the idea of [the project] being kind of a mash up where you get these artists out of context and have them create this work in their style, in this space, and really respond to the challenge of the vastness of the land here,” Chip says.

So far, artists Tom Greyeyes, Xiana Clitso, Thomas “Breeze” Marcus, Overunder, Doodles, Labrona, Gaia, Roa, and JB Snyder have traveled to the reservation from near and far (the farthest being Roa from Ghent, Belgium). This month, Italians Pixel Pancho and 2501 will spend a week painting there.

While the art photographs well, it’s better in person. If you can take a trip through the region, don’t just drive by. Stop and take a closer look. Talk to people if they are around. There is a lot to learn from Navajo culture, and, judging from my experience, the Diné (Navajo people) are happy to talk about it.

“I’ve heard people say…that seeing my pictures just made the reservation seem like a more approachable, more personable place,” Chip says. “That’s a cool thing that the art can be used to foster communication and get people exchanging in a way that stereotypes are challenged and broken down.”

Blanche Haskey. (Photograph by Aaron Lavinsky)

In late September, I was lucky enough to watch Chip paste a triptych on the side of a vacant stand in Bitter Springs while three Navajo women looked on from their neighboring jewelry stand. At one point, the women turned their chairs toward the Echo Cliffs behind their shop and stared intently. I thought I was missing something, but they said they were “just looking at the rocks.”

“Do you ever get tired of the view?” I asked.

“No, never,” said Blanche Haskey, who earned her wrinkles herding sheep, raising children, and selling jewelry. “And when we leave, we miss it.”

After 79 years of almost uninterrupted living on the reservation, this woman still finds wonder in watching the summer light tell the story of the ancient rocks she’s known since birth.

And at that moment, I understand why Chip expresses his love for the Navajo Nation so that everyone can see.

He’s creating beauty about beauty.

Follow Kayla’s story on Twitter @KaylaFrost.

Comments

  1. Joanne Yoshiko
    Az
    November 12, 2012, 10:15 pm

    JB Snyder’s work beautifies that which would otherwise be bleak. Look all over the city of Phx, he’s been in the business of beautifying bleak stuff for a while. He’s got more art up on bldgs than any other artist that I’m aware of. Currently he’s painting a gallery called Legend City…You know you gotta be a bad-a** when you’re asked to paint a place called Legend City.

  2. SONIA MARIA
    Brasil
    November 13, 2012, 6:47 pm

    Lindo e maravilhoso seu trabalho em divulgar a cultura universal, as historias e modos de vida dos povos.çLindas fotos . Grata. Sõnia

  3. Rohit
    Delhi
    November 15, 2012, 3:37 am

    from a family-care physician to a Jetsonorama, he sure is following his heart. And I totally agree with the last line, ” he is creating beauty about beauty. no wonder that they don’t get tired of these views

  4. kathy b.
    michigan
    November 15, 2012, 1:44 pm

    the dr. is amazing! god bless him and the work he does! the navajo ppl are just wonderful ppl. i spent my childhood growing up in phoenix and loved studing about and meeting these folks!

  5. Shehla
    Phoenix AZ
    November 15, 2012, 11:33 pm

    Chip Thomas is an amazing artist….his street art is not just on Navajo nation…its also enjoyed by many of us in Phoenix and Flagstaff area !!!

  6. Dave Foley
    Wicklow Ireland
    November 19, 2012, 1:18 pm

    This is hugely important stament for American Indians and American Art.The sense of place and the struggle for freedom is also understood by everyday activity with Native America.Seeing this Art and remembering the work of the late Russel Means (AIM Leader) is both sad and encouraging for the Native American statement and survival,to be cherished and positively enjoyed . .indeed celebrated! Thank You. Dave Foley,Wicklow.Ireland.

  7. Dave Foley
    Wicklow Ireland
    November 19, 2012, 1:20 pm

    I now have to go to Arizona to see this Art . .and meet some of these amazing people. Thanks you Chip!
    Dave Foley, Wicklow Ireland.

  8. Chris
    November 20, 2012, 3:33 pm

    Sharing art is good. However, just because there is a blank wall doesn’t mean you can paint the surface. At best, living in a house on the NN means you have permission of the clans that live there and you have to have the overall permission. It’s not like in the City, you can sign a rental agreement, you can do what you want with it (almost). In the City, there is blight and clutter. If more non Natives come to the Rez thinking by reading this article it’s ok – it’s not. The People have lived here in many generations, we are well satisfied with what we see and don’t hear (urban noise). You can do well by having the State, U.S. gov’t and your Senators and Reps adhere to the Treaties. Or better yet educate yourself about the many treaties that you have not fulfilled.

  9. cheapsitebab
    france
    December 21, 2012, 4:33 pm

    It’s a pity, I have really little luck to see this art of my eyes
    Thank you for photos
    Signed http: // http://www.cheapsitebab.fr creation referencement site