Travels on the Run: Ayers Rock
Out of all the places in the world to celebrate a birthday, my partner David chooses Ulu r r r
The beautifully maintained Uluru Base Walk weaves around the monolith’s base, shaded in places, exposed to the burning sun in others. Right away I’m zinged by moisture-obsessed black flies (“They’re not so bad this time of year,” local after local says stoically. Remind me not to visit another time of year.).
We begin our run at the mouth of the tiny, unmarked “owl cave” near the Mala parking lot in Ulu r t r t r t r t r t
Kneeling, I spied a foot-tall stone owl on a ledge, looking very much like a live one. Though Happy and Sara couldn’t share with us the sacred songline (the Aboriginal creation story) behind it, the fact that they even showed it to us was moving enough. Uluru is full of such sacred sites.
Pressing onward as the Rock emerges out of the darkness in earthly hues of brick and burnt umber, we make our way clockwise around the base, passing through pockets of acacia woodlands and hugging the contours of dried-up streams. I spot several dark pockmarks on one wall that (according to an interpretive sign) the Aborigines believe were made by a mole in search of water. I can understand the impulse as the sun climbs higher into the sky.
Farther along, a deep gash cuts through the Rock’s face which, according to another sign, was created by fire and plays a central role in an ancient parable about how to treat strangers.
I see plenty more unmarked caves, crevices, and pinnacles along the way that I know must signify something to the Aborigines. But I will have to remain content with the beauty of the place, the hallowed sense it emanates, and the joy of an early morning birthday run — as long as I can outpace the flies.
Run Stats:
Mileage: 10.4 kilometers (6.5 miles)
Best time: Early morning, before it gets too hot. To avoid the flies, visit in the Australian winter (June-August).
Start: Mala parking lot inside Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. Note that there’s a A$25 per person entrance fee for a three-day pass (as of 2013).
End: Mala parking lot
The Route:
– From Mala parking lot, follow signs for the Uluru Base Walk
– It’s your choice to head clockwise or counterclockwise; I prefer clockwise because the trail edges slightly away from the Rock at first, yielding broader views. From the backside on, you get to snuggle up next to it for a closer look.
Important Things to Note:
– The climate is dry and extremely hot; In summer (December-February) the temperature can exceed 40° C (106° F). Be sure to bring water. It’s not advisable to run (or even walk) at the height of the day. In fact, if it’s too hot, the trail is closed.
– It’s disrespectful to climb on Uluru itself, but it’s perfectly acceptable to run — or walk, or bike — around its base.
Barbara A. Noe is senior editor of National Geographic Travel Books.
Related Topics
Go Further
Animals
- Cougar travels 1,000 miles in one of longest recorded treksCougar travels 1,000 miles in one of longest recorded treks
- Rare gray whale spotted in the Atlantic—and it's only the beginningRare gray whale spotted in the Atlantic—and it's only the beginning
- Why 'funga' is just as important as flora and faunaWhy 'funga' is just as important as flora and fauna
- Termite fossils prove mating hasn't changed in 38 million yearsTermite fossils prove mating hasn't changed in 38 million years
Environment
- Why the 2024 hurricane season could be especially activeWhy the 2024 hurricane season could be especially active
- Mushroom leather? The future of fashion is closer than you think.Mushroom leather? The future of fashion is closer than you think.
- This deadly fungus is hitchhiking its way across the worldThis deadly fungus is hitchhiking its way across the world
- Why 'funga' is just as important as flora and faunaWhy 'funga' is just as important as flora and fauna
- This exploding mine holds a treasure that may change the worldThis exploding mine holds a treasure that may change the world
History & Culture
- See the story of Jonah and the whale like never beforeSee the story of Jonah and the whale like never before
- This ancient mosaic offers extraordinary insights into the pastThis ancient mosaic offers extraordinary insights into the past
- These are the real dunes that inspired Dune—and you can visit themThese are the real dunes that inspired Dune—and you can visit them
- Meet the only woman privy to the plot to kill Julius CaesarMeet the only woman privy to the plot to kill Julius Caesar
Science
- Women’s bodies are understudied—but that’s starting to changeWomen’s bodies are understudied—but that’s starting to change
- Hundreds of tiny arachnids are likely on your face right nowHundreds of tiny arachnids are likely on your face right now
- What's worse than a hangover? Hangxiety. Here's why it happens.What's worse than a hangover? Hangxiety. Here's why it happens.
Travel
- A taste of West Bengal, from curries to Kolkata street foodA taste of West Bengal, from curries to Kolkata street food
- Discover southeastern Spain's secret coastal regionDiscover southeastern Spain's secret coastal region