Almost impossibly, the steak lived up to the hype, but best of all, sharing a common experience made me feel connected to Andy all the way back in New York City. That’s part of the reason I love to get personal recommendations from friends. We could be thousands of miles apart, but in a way, it’s as if I’m having dinner with them.

Buenos Aires is a city that needs an exclamation point after its name. And maybe all caps.

El Ateneo was once a theater. (Photograph by Mac Aque, Flickr)

BUENOS AIRES! seems to capture the city’s exuberant, exhausting, and beautiful urban buzz. I spent a full week in the South American capital and left wanting more. The wide boulevards, green parks, French-inspired architecture, late-night dancing, custom leather shops, and delectable dishes combined to deliver an exhilarating travel adventure.

Of course, there are problems. I’m not exaggerating when I say I was warned 20 times about pickpockets my first day in town. I also heard constant complaints about the government’s economic policies. And, though the city has long been known as a great value destination, hotel and restaurant costs are climbing. Still, Buenos Aires is one of the most intoxicating places I’ve ever visited.

Here are my reasons why:

See & Do

Though getting around Buenos Aires is easiest by taxi, (each ride is around $5-8), you need to put on your walking shoes to really get the lay of the land. Start by exploring the city’s distinct neighborhoods.

Craving nature? Explore the Bosques de Palermo. (Photograph by Azotesdivinos, Flickr)

You’ll find the city’s most exclusive shops and cafes in the Recoleta neighborhood. If you want a custom leather jacket, try Uru Recoleta. Nearby you’ll find city-center sights like the gorgeous Teatro Colon opera house, Casa Rosada, and the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral, where Pope Francis served as archbishop. Don’t miss one of the world’s most stunning bookstores, El Ateneo, and the famous cemetery where Eva Perón and other notables are buried (the real draw is the intricate architecture of the mausoleums).

You’ll be charmed by Palermo. The shaded, cobblestoned streets there reminded me of my neighborhood (the West Village) in NYC. Spend one late night at the casual milonga (dance hall) Salon Canning, where the locals start dancing after midnight. Save a few hours to check out the mind-boggling, sometimes gut-wrenching exhibitions at the Buenos Aires Museum of Latin American Art and take a stroll through the Bosques de Palermo, a beautiful urban oasis. The area perks up in November and December when the glamorous Argentine Derby and Argentine Polo Open Championship come to town. Watch for beloved native son, polo player, and Ralph Lauren model Nacho Figueras.

The old docks area of Puerto Madero has been reinvigorated thanks to the bizarre Faena Hotel and Universe, which puts on one of the city’s most over-the-top (and pricey) tango shows, Rojo Tango. Though the rest of the area is unremarkable, the Fortabat Collection is worth seeing, and outdoor biking and birding enthusiasts will love exploring the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve.

Make a quick stop during the day in La Boca, the colorful, small area where tango was born. Though it’s touristy during the day and generally lifeless at night, it’s still an essential stop for the first-time visitor.

And, on Sundays, the place to be is the bustling flea market in San Telmo for leather, antique watches, and unique artwork.

La Boca can be touristy, but it’s worth checking out. (Photograph by Wally Gobetz, Flickr)

Sit & Eat

While Argentina doesn’t come close to disappointing when it comes to red meat (besides La Cabrera Norte, try Cabaña Las Lilas or Fervor for steaks), I’ll take dulce de leche any day of the week. Lucky for me, a different version of the South American sensation — inside crepes, drizzled over grilled bananas, giving flavor to gelato – was offered on nearly every menu I encountered in the city. Speaking of gelato, head to Volta or Persicco to sample more local flavor.

Piegari and Sottovoce are great choices for Italian. I took a friend’s recommendation to find Guido on a nondescript, locals-only street, where families and friends devour pizza and pasta and no English is spoken. Tegui has a chic-meets-industrial vibe and fantastic Mediterranean food, while Olsen, with its stunning garden, was my favorite lunch spot. Tip: Don’t book a dinner reservation before 10 p.m.

Stay & Sleep

Head to Olsen for great food. (Photograph by Annie Fitzsimmons)

I recommend making your home base in either the elegant Recoleta or the au courant Palermo districts.

You’ll find the ultimate in comfort at the Four Seasons Buenos Aires, where much of the design reflects Argentina’s heritage, including the striking horse sculpture out front. The swirly patterns in the lobby were inspired by the tango, while polo lends inspiration to Elena (absolutely the hottest restaurant in Buenos Aires right now). Guests can choose between the historic belle epoque-style mansion or the more modern “tower” with its sweeping views of the widest avenue in the world, 9 de Julio.

In Recoleta, Loi Suites, where some rooms overlook the famous cemetery, is a good value, while the chic Hotel Krista in the Hollywood district of Palermo provides a great boutique option.

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

Plus, I was too excited about my destination, the Emerald Coast of Brazil. I was also amped to get to the Ponta dos Ganchos resort where I would be staying (a hot property that will only get hotter as the travel industry homes in on Brazil as the World Cup and the Summer Olympics approach).

See how the sea and shore seem to blend together? (Photograph by Annie Fitzsimmons)

The traffic jam allowed me to pump my driver, Leo, for information. He told me that in this corner of the world, it’s all about the water. And he’s right. From certain vantage points, the deep green waters that give the coast its name seem to merge with the verdant shoreline they lap up against.

On the drive to the resort, we passed one colorful fishing village and tiny beach after another. During the summer season, Florianopolis swells to two million people, nearly five times its usual size. Leo told me it’s the “number one place people wish they could move to in Brazil,” citing a boom in tech start ups along with its natural beauty (“over three quarters of the area is preserved,” he boasted) as reasons. Plus, Brazil’s third-largest university provides a youthful vitality that keeps the city fresh.

Finally, we pulled up to Ponta dos Ganchos, which can only be described as a dream destination (previous guests Paul McCartney, Beyoncé, and Fergie probably agree). My friend, Kelly, joined me for this Brazilian getaway, after I attended the Virtuoso conference in Buenos Aires, and we felt like we were on a honeymoon (the resort serves dinner to one lucky couple each night on their own private island).

One of the bungalows at Ponta dos Ganchos (note the huge hammock and the incredible views). (Photograph by Mathieu Lebreton, Flickr)

We even ran into another industry friend, Elite Travel International President Stacy Small, who scouts properties like this for her clients. After raving about the place (“It’s one of those rare beachfront resorts that wows on every level from the uber-stylish ‘bangalos’ with private sea-view plunge pools to the genuine friendliness of the staff.”), she confided that it’s somewhere she personally plans to return to “when the craving for a peaceful recharge hits.”

The resort is distinctly Brazilian, a welcome impression in an increasingly homogenized hotel world. My favorite feature in each of the 25 bungalows was the extra-large hammock. What’s better than starting off the morning by lolling around and enjoying the views? But the real reward of staying here is the unparalleled access to the secluded coast (the property offers private beaches, kayaks, sailboats, and two nature trails).

Beyond the resort, the region boasts some of the best diving opportunities in Brazil, including the Arvoredo Marine Biological Reserve. Between June and November, you can witness a true spectacle of nature on board a whale-watching ship as pods of the marine mammals migrate north to find warm, calm waters to have their babies.

And, farther afield, you can explore the city of Blumenau, known for its impressive Oktoberfest celebration, or visit the local Scherer distillery to sample some cachaça, a Brazilian spirit made with sugar cane.

Blumenau plays host to one of the largest Oktoberfest celebrations in the world. (Photograph by Fernando Pangaré, Flickr)

I was also happy to put an old aversion to rest on the Emerald Coast. At Ponta dos Ganchos, they serve the famous Santa Catarina oysters, which I loved. I had always been turned off by the bivalves’ fleshy texture and overbearing saltwater taste before, but these were different — just a hint of salt and a dash of fresh citrus. In fact, if I’m lucky enough to return to this part of Brazil, I’d like to go out on a traditional bateira with an oyster farmer so I can taste them as soon as they’re harvested.

Finally, I feel compelled to mention that if you come to this corner of the world, you’re bound to see the largest rodent on Earth.

A waiter had warned us that two capybaras roamed the resort property, but urged us not to worry, as they are completely harmless. Still, my first encounter was startling. Native to South America, capybaras live near water and look like a cross between a porcupine, a wild boar, and a rat. I can’t say I wanted to sneak one home in my suitcase, but it was fascinating to watch the pair roam around at night.

Know Before You Go:

I’m about to admit something that makes me look like a real amateur. I didn’t realize — even think about — checking to see if Brazil required a visa for Americans. By the time my friend realized we needed one, I was already in Buenos Aires and due to fly to Brazil in five days. Next thing you know, I’m frantically searching for a passport photo place and printing out bank statements. But, as it turns out, it’s simple to secure a Brazilian visa at the consulate in Buenos Aires (thanks to this site for the helpful tips!) and takes only 24 hours, with no rush fee. Bem vindo ao Brasil!

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

Deciding against the group-tour-bus approach allows you to map out a customized route based on what you really want to see. For me, it was a mix of ancient sites and pilgrimage spots (along with a good dose of delicious Israeli food along the way). Israel is easily manageable by car and parking at the major attractions is generally painless.

Watching the sun set in Akko. (Photograph by Annie Fitzsimmons)

I only had three days, so I decided to concentrate on northern Israel. Based on my experience, I would recommend staying one night in Akko (Acre), and one or two nights in the Sea of Galilee area or in Rosh Pina. Check out my full itinerary — from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem — below if you’d like to follow in my footsteps.

Here we go!

Day One: From Tel Aviv, drive to Caesarea National Park to see what remains of the town built by Herod the Great (there’s a nice exhibit mapping its history) and check out the great beaches. The restored Roman amphitheater is an impressive site that hosts concerts today. (If you’re a golfer, be sure to check out the Caesarea Golf Club, considered to be the best course in Israel.)

Drive north from Caesarea to Haifa, Israel’s third-largest city, where you have to stop at the Baha’i Shrine and Gardens, a beautiful terraced landscaped built as a memorial to the founders of the Baha’i religion. From here, you can look across the bay to Akko, your stop for the night.

Day Two: Akko was a strategic city during the Crusades and boasts some of the best intact ruins from that era. But the real star was dinner at Uri Buri near the water. Keep an eye out for the legendary owner himself. But don’t let his long white beard intimidate you; he’s like an ebullient teddy bear who cooks dreamy seafood. As he presented my meal, he winked and said: “Salmon without wasabi is like a kiss without a mustache.” By the end of the night, I had tears rolling down my face from laughing so hard. While each dish is better than the next, the restaurant’s ambiance is homey and inviting. There is no “celebrity wall,” Uri Buri told me, though many have visited.

Ronen is known by locals as “the Yemenite Pizza Man.” (Photograph by Annie Fitzsimmons)

The best place to stay in Akko is the Efendi Hotel, of which Uri Buri is part owner. The boutique property opened after a meticulous 8-year restoration process under the watchful eye of the Israel Antiquities Authority. In addition to 12 gorgeous rooms on three levels, the Efendi’s rooftop offers the best sunset-viewing spot in town.

Day Three: After a restful night in Akko, spend the morning in Safed, the highest city in Israel. Safed is now known for its quaint art galleries and shops, but is the birthplace of Kabbalah, and remains a center for the religion (of course, Madonna has visited). If you get lost, just ask for where the “Art Gallery Street” (Alkabetz). Wander to number 18 and have Ronen make you lunch. The “pizzas” are essentially grilled pancakes served with herbs, vegetables, and cheese, but you’ll soon understand why tourists and locals alike love them.

From Safed, you can drive to a number of Christian religious sites. My favorite, for its authenticity, was Capernaum, a small town on the Sea of Galilee where Jesus taught in the local synagogue (it’s also the hometown of four apostles — Peter, James, Andrew, and John). Today, the sea provides half of Israel’s drinking water, but when you dip your feet into the water it’s easy to imagine what it must have been like thousands of years ago.

Ruins at Capernaum on the northern shores of the Sea of Galilee. (Photograph by Annie Fitzsimmons)

Nearby is Tabgha where, according to biblical tradition, Jesus fed 5,000 people with five loaves of bread and two fish. The view from the Mount of Beatitudes, the site where Jesus delivered his Sermon on the Mount, is appropriately peaceful. And while the city of Nazareth is chaotic, it’s worth visiting if only to see the Basilica of Annunciation, built over the grotto where Mary was supposedly told she was carrying the son of God.

I’m not sure that the high cost justifies a stay at the famous Mizpe Hayamim in Rosh Pina, but I loved their organic farm (the property had the whole farm-to-table thing going on in the 1960s long before it was a global trend) and the stunning views. Instead, I would consider booking at one of the hundreds of zimmers (B&Bs) in the region. A friend recommended the invaluable This is Galilee as a resource.

So, what would I do differently next time?

I would carve out more time so I could explore the south, and the Israeli sides of the Dead Sea and the Red Sea (I’ve been to the Jordan side of both). I want to see places like Masada, the Qumran Caves, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered, and the Negev Desert. I’d also book a guide who could provide more context at the religious sites, as I did when I was in Jerusalem.

Let me know what I missed in the north, or what I should see in the rest of Israel when I plan my next visit!

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

It might be the best thing in the world for some people to spend 24 hours a day with their mom. For me, it’s a different, sometimes taxing relationship, and takes a lot of patience. Before, our little spats would have completely destroyed a trip. Now I’m smarter and realize that I can’t blame the other person for their actions; I can only take responsibility for how I react. When I get home, I can vent and recall ridiculous situations. But if I don’t remain calm and relaxed while I’m traveling, it’s no fun for anyone.

A memorable trip that I still smile about was when I spent a week in Maui with my little sister. We alternated between beach days and active days, like driving the Road to Hana and biking down Haleakala. Sure, she likes to sleep in and stay up later than I do, but we were an instant travel match. Now, I’d go anywhere with her.

Whether you’re traveling with your mom or someone else, here are my tips for success on one-on-one trips:

Know your “No-Fly List”: When friends would say “Let’s plan a trip together!,” I used to respond with “Sure!” Now I only say it if I mean it. I won’t name names, but there are certain people I’d never want to spend extended periods of time with — especially on the road. A two-hour dinner in New York is one thing, but navigating a foreign country together? I recently had a friend I’d never traveled with join me in Argentina and Brazil. It could have been disastrous, but knowing her personality, I had a feeling we’d be okay. The risk paid off: Our trip was amazing, and I got to know her much better.

Schedule alone time: My boyfriend knows I need what we call my “putz” time every day. I need time to roam around, check food and lifestyle blogs, flip through an US Weekly, or look at the photos I took that day. It doesn’t matter whether I’m at home or on the road, this time is vital. I especially love having an hour between the day’s activities and my plans for the evening.

Don’t judge — and don’t force: Just because I want to spend as much time as I can exploring doesn’t mean that I should expect my mom to do so as well. We followed a schedule of planned activity in the morning, then, after lunch, my mom would return to the hotel to relax while I would go wander around. Another example: I don’t like interacting with people in the early morning (Let me enjoy my International Herald Tribune, cappuccino, and smoked salmon in peace!), while my mom likes to chit chat. If you and your travel partner can agree to adopt a strategy of no judgment and no coercion, you’ll be well on your way to bliss.

Avoid touchy subjects: The time to argue over hot-button issues is never when you’re together, alone, overseas. I made this mistake during one lunch in Amsterdam and tried to project a response I desperately wanted my mom to have, fully knowing it would never happen. Yet I tried and it turned into the most awkward, get-me-off-this-island lunch. Why ruin a good time abroad when you can argue at home?

Practice patience: Breathe. Wait a few seconds before responding. Breathe again. When I feel my patience wearing thin, I look down at my rings, twist them around, and then respond.

Be up front about your travel priorities: Everyone has their own idea of what they want to experience and see while they’re exploring a new place. And when you’re traveling with someone else (especially just one other person), it’s important to have these conversations long before the departure date so you’re on the same page. But, keep in mind that as nothing ever goes exactly as planned when you’re traveling, it’s equally important to make adjustments along the way to ensure both of you feel like you’ve gotten what you came for.

Check in: I tend to be the planner (a position I love to be in) when it comes to trips. But now I try to check in with my travel partner du jour throughout the process. My questions range from: “Does this still sound good?” and “Do you still feel like sushi?” to “It’s okay if you want to skip another cathedral, I’m not feeling it either.” With any hope, the other person will return the favor by communicating with you, too.

Laugh: After traveling through Wallonia together, my mom and I had to return our car and make it to the station in time for our train. This led to a comically difficult turn of events — one of those days where it feels like nothing is going right. Turns out most gas stations are closed Sundays, and the only one we found that was open had a line two hours long and a busted credit card machine. The cost of returning the tank empty was astronomically high, so we had to make it work. We missed our train. But we laughed through it — and got on the next one.

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

They really rolled out the red carpet for the group, and I was happy to tag along. One of the dinners was held at the Bicentennial Museum underneath Casa Rosada at the invitation of Argentine President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner. On another afternoon, a special horse race was presented at the ritzy 10,000-seat Palermo Hippodrome. We all checked in to the city’s most stunning properties, the Alvear Palace Hotel, Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires, Faena Hotel & Universe, and Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt, where I stayed (rave reviews for their gardens and melding of classic palace and modern luxury).

A couple at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Myanmar. (Photograph by Roger Price, Flickr)

But I was most interested in what happens when some of the top minds in travel come together. Virtuoso feels like a club in the best possible way, filled with friends that have known each other for years. I kept saying I had the warm fuzzies — that feeling you get when you know you’re with your kind of people. I barreled my way into conversations, which turned into passionate discourses on everything from the state of the airline industry to which hotels are better (“No, in Tuscany you MUST stay at Castiglion del Bosco!”).

According to top advisors, the most-booked destinations remain the same year after year. Italy is by far the most popular, followed in no particular order by France, England, the Caribbean (Turks & Caicos is a favorite), and the Dominican Republic.

While watching the horses zoom by at the Virtuoso Derby, I had fun chatting with two Southern gentlemen, Peter Lloyd and Gene Lashley, the owners of Atlanta-based Century Travel. Many trends are here to stay, Lloyd said, pointing to multi-generational travel as an example. “After 9/11, people really began to travel with their extended families and continue to do so,” he said. All-inclusive resorts are also still popular, he continued, “and they don’t have to be terrible. We love the Grand Velas Riviera Maya in Mexico.”

Our chat, along with the oodles of conversations I had throughout the week, led to the creation of this list — the seven travel trends you have to know about now:

1. Around the World Travel: For the true trip of a lifetime where money is no object, some travelers are going around the world in high style. More travel companies are launching global itineraries by private jet, including Abercrombie & Kent’s Around the World with Geoffrey Kent, where the founder, chairman, and CEO of the company takes groups of 50 to his favorite destinations, including Easter Island and Madagascar. Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts offers a global trip with accommodations in their upscale properties, while National Geographic Expeditions has a 24-day route that includes stops at Machu Picchu, Tibet, and the pyramids — and onboard experts who highlight the history and culture of each place. How do we know this is a trend? The trips are selling out, and fast.

2. More Destination Celebrations: Whether it’s a wedding, birthday, or anniversary, travel advisors are seeing an increase in bookings for destination celebrations. But the destination must be easy to get to, said Lloyd. “We have done weddings in Italy, Punta Cana, Jamaica, and Riviera Maya, to name a few. The overriding concern is that the air lift is both accessible and reasonable.”

A luxury kitchen in a rental villa in Jackson Hole. (Photograph courtesy The Clear Creek Group)

3. The Cooking Craze is Driving Home Rentals: The popularity of home and villa rentals continues to rise for several reasons, including cost and value. Many travelers have been requesting beautiful kitchens and stocking up at nearby grocery stores, a reflection of a continuing trend toward all things culinary. In-demand rental companies include Think Sicily and Think Puglia (both extremely hot destinations this year), and The Clear Creek Group in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, which is seeing a 30 percent increase each year in rentals, especially among families in search of outdoor adventure in nearby Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks.

4. Mobile Explosion: According to Robert Carey and David Kang of McKinsey & Company, who spoke at the symposium, travel boasts annual sales of around $100 billion online, which accounts for a third of all e-commerce spending worldwide. While companies are investing in digital and mobile left and right, it seems that whoever does it best and fastest while focusing on what makes travelers’ lives easier will be the real winners. We are just at the beginning of what is possible on mobile devices and with travel apps, and I can’t wait to see what comes next.

5. Experiential Travel Growth: Some travelers feel like they’ve been everywhere already. Because of this, travel to exotic places like Bhutan, Myanmar, and Hangzhou in China continue to grow in popularity. And you won’t find this group of jet-setters sitting around at the resort pool. They want real, authentic moments of discovery and memories to last a lifetime.

6. But Don’t Count Out Familiarity: On the other hand, there’s a trend toward travelers returning to nostalgic places — especially when it comes to skiing. “We have many clients who love to repeat the same resorts they have been to in the past, including Aspen, Steamboat Springs, and Vail,” said Lloyd.  For Lashley, Utah’s Deer Valley, which doesn’t allow snowboarders, sees the most family repeats.

7. More Listeners, Less Experts: So many people claim to be travel experts that it’s hard to know who to pay attention to. That’s why we’re seeing more and more people seeking out knowledgable and well-connected listeners instead. A great advisor will design travel experiences that are personalized and add touches that couldn’t be replicated by clients on their own. Consumers should know that no one person can know everything, but the best will have friends all over the world.

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

One night, the woman responsible for bringing the farmers market to the Tel Aviv Port dished on her favorite restaurants; on another, a British Embassy staffer steered me toward simply can’t-miss hummus. And when I asked for directions on Rothschild Boulevard, a kindly gentleman walked 15 minutes out of his way to show me.

As a female traveler who regularly flies solo, I have developed a heightened but guarded sense of awareness. But in Tel Aviv, where ubiquitous Israeli flags reveal a pride of country I have yet to see anywhere else, I felt welcome and safe. It’s not the overly warm hospitality of an Italian nonna greeting you with heaps of pasta, but more of a casual invitation to swap stories.

Another lovely morning on Rothschild Boulevard. (Photograph by Or Hiltch, Flickr)

I recently spent a week exploring the different neighborhoods in this innovative city. Tel Aviv’s creative energy and global influence are on display everywhere you look, largely due to its flourishing tech start-up scene. Though Damascus is only 133 miles away, Israel’s second biggest city feels completely sheltered from warring neighbor Syria, and talk of the conflict with Palestine is often attenuated by shoulder shrugs.

The blending of old and new is also striking. In the growing Tel Aviv Port area, I could indulge my imagination by picturing icons of history sailing the crashing waves, then indulge my appetite at Kitchen Market, a wholly modern destination for serious foodies.

My recommendations for what to do and see in the other City That Never Sleeps:

An art dealer at the Jaffa flea market. (Photograph by Lior Patel, Your Shot)

The Neighborhoods

• City Center: Stroll Dizengoff Street to check out the variety of sophisticated shops and restaurants on offer. Be sure to make it up to the Tel Aviv Port, a recently revitalized commercial and entertainment area with awesome views of the waves. For another side of the city, try walking from the Carmel Market in Kerem HaTeimanim (where you can find a colorful array of fruits, vegetables, and bargain items) to the beach. Don’t forget to get lost in this cobblestoned neighborhood along the way.
• Old Jaffa and Jaffa Port: I returned to Jaffa, one of the most delightful (and historic) parts of Tel Aviv, four times on my trip. Head to the Jaffa flea market early for the best selections, and then make a midmorning pilgrimage to Abu Hassan Hummus. (Choose the line on the left to sit down and the one on the right to take away.) I also enjoyed dinner at Dr Shakshuka, made famous for its namesake dish.
• Neve Tzedek: Duck into unique shops, art galleries, and even an organic juice bar on Shabazi, the neighborhood’s relaxed main street. Wander into the courtyard of the Suzanne Dellal Center for Dance to check for upcoming performances, then head to Cafe Suzanna to grab a bite to eat (and some shade!) on the terrace.
• Florentin: Alternatively gritty and gentrified, Florentin has long been known for its spice market. I ate my favorite meal in Tel Aviv here, at Hahultziym 3. I felt as if I were at Chef Eitan Vanunu’s own home as he served up piled-high bruschetta, lentil salad with parsley, almonds, yogurt, and lemon, and — the best bite of my trip — challah filled with pork and bacon.

The Sights

Neve Tzedek, my favorite neighborhood in Tel Aviv. (Photograph by Annie Fitzsimmons)

• Nature: The combination of strong rays and waves striking the rocky shore brings the potential for epic sunsets in Tel Aviv. Find a perch near Manta Ray restaurant on the beach, with a view of Old Jaffa.
• Culture: The Tel Aviv Museum of Art houses an impressive collection of Old Masters like Rubens, Van Dyck, and Rigaud. But don’t miss the changing exhibitions, like the jaw-droppingly outlandish art by Douglas Gordon. The building recently added a new wing, effectively doubling its size. For the best insight into the city’s art scene, book a tour with Sarah Peguine of Oh So Arty, who is connected to the best galleries in the city, like Dvir.
• Shopping: Stroll down Rothschild Boulevard and Sheinken Street to snap up some of Tel Aviv’s local flavor. On Tuesdays and Fridays, a section of Nahalat Binyamin Street becomes an artist’s showcase of jewelry, clothes, and unique craft pieces.

The Food

• Breakfast: The Dan Panorama boasts a massive spread of Israeli specialties and Western favorites, while boutique Hotel Montefiore has a beautiful dining room and delicious breakfast. At Orna and Ella, the sweet potato pancakes are the most celebrated item on the menu.
• Lunch: I loved the second-floor outdoor terrace at Delicatessen (which is also a gourmet grocery shop) and the alfresco dining experience at Lulu Kitchen and Bar on Shabazi Street.
• Dinner: Trendy Tapas 1 has diners spilling out the front door at dinner, while Mizlala attracts a beautiful crowd to chow down on Chef Meir Adoni’s creations. In Jaffa, Kalamata serves fresh seafood with a view of the Mediterranean.

The Tel Aviv Museum of Art. (Photograph by Tmesis, Flickr)

The Practical

• Planning: Arm yourself with hyper-local tips from Eager Tourist, and map out your itinerary for each day (I went neighborhood by neighborhood). Walk as much as you can to see the city up close and personal.
• Transportation: A car rental helped me get around quickly, but if you follow suit, rent the smallest car you can. Tel Aviv has a huge parking shortage, and my Mini made the difference more than once.
• Navigation: Triple-check addresses, and use Waze! (Full disclosure, my longtime beau works for the social GPS company.) But, with over 70 percent of Israel signed up for the service, if there’s a faster way to get from place to place, Waze will tell you.

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

Despite these challenges, traveling by train is by far my favorite mode of transport — especially when I’m in Europe.

Trains are more civilized there, and more convenient. The extensive network of interconnected tracks makes it a breeze to zip around the continent (a notable exception for me has been in Italy, where departure times seems to be merely a suggestion).

On a recent trip to Europe, I boarded a Thalys train in Amsterdam to discover a vibe that was refined and polished, and fellow passengers who were courteous and quiet. As I opened my laptop to take advantage of the free WiFi, a full breakfast was served to me in my Comfort 1 seat. When I arrived relaxed and calm in Brussels two hours later, I didn’t want the journey to end.

A train prepares to take off for Amsterdam from the station in Antwerp. (Photograph by Vincent Brassinne, Flickr)

Though there are plenty of low-cost flights available in Europe (which can be good choices for longer distances), why deal with airport security and extra luggage fees if you don’t have to? And you can learn so much about a place on a train by watching the landscape change — from the snow-capped mountains in Switzerland to the hills and rivers of Austria.

A Eurail pass is almost a rite of passage for American college students of some means. It was certainly the golden ticket that ignited my abiding love for travel. My friends and I would sit there poring over maps, making tough decisions like whether to stay longer in Cinque Terre or move on to Paris.

Eurail passes are sold by Rail Europe, so I connected with the company’s CEO, Frederic Langlois, to learn more about the vast patchwork of train companies they collaborate with, and the tantalizing products they offer.

Here’s what you should know:

Europe is shrinking: Langlois says the high-speed rail network is expanding, which means you’ll be able to get where you want to go even faster. The focus for them is improving connections to major cities with Brussels as a hub (right now, you can zip to the UK, Netherlands, Germany, and France from the Belgian capital).

Pick the right pass: A lot has changed since I left college ten years ago. Certain passes allow for unlimited travel to 24 countries like France, Spain, and Ireland. From this network, choose a Continuous Pass (available for 15 or 21 days, or one, two, or three months), a Flexipass (10 or 15 days of travel within a two-month span), or a Select Pass (choose up to 15 days of travel within two months in three, four, or five bordering countries). Note: France is no longer part of the Select Pass, but can be added on.

Or stick to one or two countries: You can also buy two-country or single country passes. Want to focus on eating pasta and exploring the “Boot” top to bottom? The Eurail Italy pass is for you. They also offer a France, German, and Swiss Rail pass. Bonus tip: The Swiss Rail Pass includes free entry to more than 400 museums in Switzerland.

Make use of mobile: Like many people these days, I access nearly all of my travel information on my smartphone. Eurostar, Thalys, TGV (France), RENFE (Spain), ICE (Germany), and Italo (Italy) already offer e-ticketing, and the trend toward mobile means there will be even more options to come.

Good news for WiFi: WiFi is such a huge factor for travelers today and will continue to be a hot button issue until it’s free and fast everywhere. According to Rail Europe, it’s becoming available on more and more European trains, like Thalys and Italo, and will continue to expand in the coming years.

In good company: The number of people who choose to travel by train is on the upswing. According to Langlois, trains now have 75 percent market share (versus airlines) on connections that are fewer than three hours. When that drops to two-hours connections, rail is the clear winner with up to 95 percent of the market share. And rail travelers will only win as companies continue to focus on making trains even more comfortable and efficient.

What’s your favorite train experience in Europe or anywhere else in the world? Do you have any tips for fellow travelers? Leave a comment to share the love:

I know. Of all the things I could be thinking about…but hear me out. I was thinking about the title of her monthly magazine column, “What I Know for Sure” — because, in Jerusalem, what I thought I knew evaporated.

Depending on the day, my sympathies lie with Israel, then Palestine, then back again. But come what may, I try to understand where people are coming from, even if I don’t agree.

A Hasidic Jew passes through an archway in the Jewish Quarter of Old City Jerusalem. (Photograph by Leigh Wood, My Shot)

Growing up with four siblings, I had to shout for my voice to be heard. But I could also be easily swayed. “That sounds good,” I’d muse when one brother would argue a point, then I’d do an about-face when another offered a counterpoint. You could say I’m fickle, but I prefer to think of it as being open-minded.

As I explored places that took on very different meanings depending on which lens — Jewish, Christian, Muslim — you looked through, I felt the world weighing on me. My head and heart were filled with more drama than usual, my thoughts vacillating between the arrogant (“What fools!”) and the forlorn (“Why can’t I believe in something so passionately?”).

I had planned to write a review of the new hotels and restaurants on the horizon in Jerusalem — a story about the city’s present and future. But when I arrived, I was overwhelmed by the past, and by an intense desire to know something, anything, for sure.

The Dome of the Rock is the most famous Islamic shrine in Jerusalem. (Photograph by Peter Dimov, My Shot)

There’s no way to do Jerusalem justice without a knowledgeable guide. My boyfriend and I booked Meir More for a day and counted it as the best money we spent on our entire trip. He took us to where the Jewish, Christian, Armenian, and Muslim quarters intersect and said, “Jerusalem is united by its rooftops and divided by its people below.”

If you want your guide to simply reinforce the stories and stereotypes you grew up with, there are plenty of options out there, but finding someone who can illuminate all sides is rare.

Here are a few other tips we learned from Meir and from our experience in one of the oldest and most complicated cities in the world:

• Manage expectations: Tell your guide what you want to get out of the day, so he or she can prioritize accordingly.
• Think about renting wheels: Having access to a car ensured we got the most out of our time with Meir.
• Get off to a good start: The Mount of Olives makes an ideal jumping-off place as it provides a sweeping overview of the city and solid points of entry into different periods of Jerusalem’s history from different perspectives.
• Don’t panic: It’s easy to get turned around in the Old City, but you’ll always find your way out.
• Indulge your appetites: Don’t miss the sensory feast at Mahane Yehuda Market (Note: It is insanely packed before and after Shabbat).
• Explore the present: Enjoy modern shopping and dining at the pedestrian-only Mamilla Mall near the Jaffa Gate.
• Tough it out: Trying to understand the different (and often competing) tales and traditions of the world’s greatest religions can be overwhelming. Just go with it, and let your head hurt at the end of the day. You have to use muscles to build them.
  

  Pick up some fresh produce at Mahane Yehuda market. (Photograph by Emmanuel Dyan, Flickr)

On a lighter note, I know for sure that staying in a hotel with a story of its own makes a destination even better. The circa 1930 King David Hotel is an icon because of its imposing exterior, and because of the important people who have spent time within its walls. (President Obama stayed in a suite there two weeks before I arrived.)

Check out the A-list signatures etched into the lobby floor (I spotted my favorite author, Paulo Coelho) for proof of the King David’s storied cachet.

Mornings call for indulgence at the hotel’s impressive breakfast buffet (something Israeli hotels are known for), with seemingly endless varieties of local cheese, salad, cereal, fruit, and bread.

But be aware of Shabbat, the Jewish day of rest, when most of the city shuts down (from sunset on Friday to sunset on Saturday) — including many of the amenities at hotels. For instance, the King David closes its fitness center and offers a very limited room service menu.

You may leave Jerusalem with more questions than answers, as I did. But just as I’ll always be glad to have more books than time to read them, it is always better to question than to keep your head in the sand.

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

Behind every star is a place, and Liverpool continues to be a pilgrimage site for those obsessed with John, Paul, George, and Ringo. Yet the city holds wider appeal to folks who, like me, have been touched by their music and look back with fondness on the unique brand of swinging creativity and free living the group came to represent.

John Lennon’s childhood bedroom at “Mendips.” (Photograph by NTPL, VisitLiverpool)

April marks the 50th anniversary of “From Me to You,” the Beatles’ very first number one hit in the U.K. It would take another year for the group to make its legendary appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show and subsequent “invasion.”

Dave Jones of Cavern City Tours (Liverpool’s leading tour operator) grew up with the music of the Beatles and hung out where they did. “It was like you were living in the center of the Earth in 1963,” he said. “Girls would ask to hear my voice just because I sounded like Paul or John.”

While Liverpool has been described as gloomy, grim, and industrial, Jones maintains that the seaport has more to offer the world than its prodigal sons. (It’s ”more cosmopolitan than perhaps any other city in Britain besides London,” he says.)

Beatles fan or not, if you’re planning a trip to Liverpool, don’t miss these places and experiences that provide insight into the Fab Four and the city that produced them:

• The Cavern Club

The club where the Beatles were famously discovered by Brian Epstein closed its doors in 1973, but a replica was built on the site in 1984 using bricks from the original building after John Lennon’s untimely death brought a renewed interest in preserving the Beatles’ Liverpool legacy.

While the club continues to serve as a live music venue, it’s also the jumping-off point for the most popular Beatles-themed offering in the city: The Magical Mystery Tour. The two-hour tour includes stops at dozens of sites with direct ties to the Fab Four, including their childhood homes (the proximity of which is, as Jones noted, “hugely coincidental…as that wasn’t how they met”), Penny Lane, Strawberry Field, and, naturally, the Cavern Club. Opposite the club is the Cavern Pub, another place to listen to live music and see artifacts and memorabilia.

• International Beatleweek

This weeklong festival (August 21-27 this year) brings thousands of die-hard fans — along with more than 500 musical acts from 23 different countries, guest speakers, and unique exhibitions — to northern England. As 2013 is the 50th anniversary of the group’s first chart-topping hit, this year’s festival, put on by Cavern Club Tours, promises to be epic. As the festival’s website says: ”New, long-lasting friendships await you here in Liverpool, the birthplace of the biggest cultural phenomenon of all time.”

• “The Beatles Story“

A Beatles tribute band outside the Cavern Club. (Photograph by Pawel Libera, British Tourist Authority)

Albert Dock provides the backdrop for the main “Beatles Story” experience, which takes visitors through the life and times of the Fab Four — from growing up in Liverpool to becoming a worldwide phenomenon. Interim Director Martin King describes the space as a living museum, a place where you can “talk to people that lived and worked with the Beatles” and see items like John Lennon’s glasses, George Harrison’s guitar, and contracts signed over the years.

The Fab 4D experience — a cutting-edge interactive journey through the music of the Beatles housed in a second site at the Pier Head – is a must for families.

• The Lennon & McCartney Homesteads

Make advance reservations to see John Lennon’s childhood home, “Mendips,” and the former home of Paul McCartney and his family located at 20 Forthlin Road. While you can see the outside of their homes on other tours, this is the only one that takes you inside. The National Trust, which oversees the tour, offers tickets at £20.00 per adult for a guided look at both homes (including transportation between the two).

• Hard Days Night Hotel

This boutique hotel, which claims to be the world’s only Beatles-inspired hotel, is adjacent to the Cavern Club, in “the heart of Liverpool’s ‘Beatles Quarter.’” All 110 guest rooms are all decked out with Beatles-related artwork, but true fanatics can always upgrade to the Lennon or McCartney suites.

Beyond the Beatles:

The Museum of Liverpool, which opened in 2011, is the newest addition to the National Museums Liverpool. (Photograph by Mills Media Limited)

• Tate Liverpool

One of the four Tate museums in Britain, Tate Liverpool displays an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art. Other Liverpool museums include the Museum of Liverpool for an in-depth look at the city’s history, and the World Museum Liverpool, which covers natural history and science and boasts a planetarium and aquarium.

• Liverpool Cathedral

You might think the largest cathedral in the U.K. would be in London, but it’s here in Liverpool (it’s also the fifth largest in the world). Although it doesn’t have an ancient history (it was completed in 1978 after more than seven decades of work), the Anglican place of worship is open year-round and is quite a sight to behold.

• Liverpool ONE

This immense open-air complex offers more than 160 options for shopping and dining, attracting a crowd every night. Be sure to check out the calendar to see if there will be any special events taking place while you’re in town. If not, you can always hit the on-site cinema or 36-hole adventure golf course.

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.

It’s harder than ever to find a product unique to its country these days — and I don’t want to end up with something I can find on junk-clogged Canal Street in Manhattan.

To be sure, that doesn’t mean I don’t like to shop. Since my last visit to “the Venice of the North,” many of the unique antique shops in the Spiegelkwartier, with soon-to-reopen Rijksmuseum as a backdrop, had closed. Still, the area is lovely, with cool art galleries, a cute toy shop, and cozy cafes. You can also walk to nearby Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat for that Fifth-Avenue feel, with high-end shops like Chanel and Louis Vuitton.

The Rijksmuseum will reopen on April 13 after a 10-year hiatus. (Photograph by Marco Tardiola, Flickr)

But for that true taste of A’dam, head to “De 9 Straatjes.” Three major canals (Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht) divide the Central Canal district into nine little streets that are big on personality. While the more casual shopper may breeze through in an hour or two, serious shoppers can spend an entire day (or more) exploring the quaint boutiques and eateries — all with signature Dutch style – down each lane. No matter where you fall on the spectrum, be sure to bring your camera because the views are phenomenal.

Here’s my guide to must-sees along Amsterdam’s “De 9 Straatjes”:

1. Reestraat: Noa Lifestyle carries a beautifully curated collection of clothes and jewelry from one of my favorite designers, gorjana. For a great hot or cold sandwich, pick from among five dozen choices at Hartenkaas. If you’re looking for something different, try Nooch for a great al fresco meal or stop by Tin Pan Alley for quality coffee and live music.

2. Hartenstraat: At Eddy’s Prints (Hartenstraat 30), you’ll find colorful lino prints at great prices, while Dutch designer Hester van Eeghen sells a different kind of art: bright, intriguing handbags and accessories (she also has a second boutique that sells shoes with her signature geometric flair right down the street). Browse books on graphic design, photography, and contemporary art at Joot, take an espresso break at Screaming Beans, and satisfy your craving for Indian cuisine in a sophisticated space at Purna.

3. Gasthuismolensteeg: You can pick up perfect baby booties as a gift at Antonia by Yvette, but don’t forget to nab a pair of colorful pumps or leather boots for yourself. The housemade pastrami at ‘t Kuyltje rivals what you’d find at the best New York delis, as does the smoked salmon and bacon. It’s a cabinet of curiosities at Nic Nic, with vintage clothing (think lace collars and flowery dresses) and a variety of pottery and art deco items.

“The Darling” on Runstraat has it all. (Photograph by Annie Fitzsimmons)

4. Oude Spiegelstraat: On this very short street, you can pop into Simone to give your hair a boost or stop by Rika to pick up a chic studded handbag or a sexy leather jacket. But for a true taste of local living, book one of the two rooms above the shop.

5. Wolvenstraat: A great casual breakfast (and fantastic people-watching) can be had at Cafe Wheels. After that, dress up in sleek Scandinavian clothes at Filippa K and pay a visit to Scotch & Soda for a glimpse of the brand’s unique line for kids.

6. Berenstraat: If I had to pick a favorite street based on looks alone, Berenstraat would be it. Find fab books on fashion and architecture at Mendo, get wrapped up in noodle heaven at Thai Fusion, or try Mokka for an afternoon snack (it’s only open during the day).

7. Runstraat: While I will never lug a lamp home from Amsterdam, I was tempted at ‘t Runnertje. The street also boasts double-decker beauty emporium Skins Cosmetics (Runstraat 11), a shop dedicated to all things dental care, and De Kaaskamer, one of the greatest cheese shops in the world (they’ll shrink wrap for the plane ride home!). If you’re pressed for time, find coffee, cupcakes, and clothes in one-stop-shop The Darling.

8. Huidenstraat: Stop by Cafe de Pels to soak up some of their creative spirit and take in the walls full of funky art. Head to Pompadour Bakery just down the street to enjoy a mid-afternoon sweet treat in a dreamy space or create your own personalized jewelry at Beadies.

9. Wijde Heisteeg: On the shortest street of them all, you’ll find the goldsmith Wigmans, Lef, a tiny cafe that sells smoothies and sandwiches, and, last but not least, Emaille.nl, which has been making original signs for more than 40 years.

Annie Fitzsimmons is Intelligent Travel’s Urban Insider, giving you the dish on the best things to see and do in cities all over the world. Follow her on Twitter @anniefitz.