I first visited Burma, now Myanmar, in the spring of 1966, when I was 18. It was a few years after the coup d’état; most foreigners had been kicked out of the country, and the government was not welcoming visitors. I fell instantly in love. Even though the ruling military regime was one of the harshest in the world, the people I met were gracious and generous. I wanted to write a book–anything that could get me back there. But I haven’t had the occasion to return until this year.