Marseille, Mon Ami
I have to come clean: the headline isn’t mine (it’s the opening line from French chansonnier Charles Aznavour’s classic song “Allez vai Marseille“), but I used it because I cannot agree more. I visited France’s second largest city earlier this summer and all I can say is that this beautiful, historic city went straight to my heart.
Marseille is often cited as France’s oldest city, and its port — France’s largest — on the Mediterranean has played an enormous role in shaping its history and cuisine.
A lot has changed in the 40 years since the Oscar-sweeping movie, The French Connection, brought Marseille into the pop culture limelight as a heroin smuggling mecca. Though the city hasn’t lost all of its grit, its burgeoning art scene, fabulous seafood, and intriguing fusion of Provençal and North African cultures make it a truly unique destination. The number of visitors is bound to increase now that it has been named a European Capital of Culture for 2013, so plan your trip now. Here are a few tips to get you going:
Start Right
If you’re visiting Marseille for the first time, get to know the city by taking in the view from the Notre-Dame de la Garde, a beautiful basilica built in 1864 that has come to symbolize its skyline.
Witness the clamor of hundreds of fishing boats in the Vieux Port (old port) from the highest point in the city. But don’t spend too much time watching: there is too much to explore on ground level — including the beach!
Eat Right
Marseille is where bouillabaisse was born, invented out of necessity by hungry fishermen returning from port. From its humble origins,
the classic Provençal fish stew has taken on new levels of sophistication, and can be found in thousands of iterations around town accompanied by toasted bread and rouille.
I challenge you to find a more suitable place to have a bouillabaisse than in one of the many restaurants located in the Vieux Port. Try Restaurant Miramar.
Buy Right
Savon de Marseille is exported all over the world, and with good reason. You won’t believe how smooth and gentle it will leave your skin. No wonder, since it’s made of a minimum of 72 percent olive and vegetable oil. You can find it in shops all over the city, but I
would recommend taking a tour of the family-owned soap factory, La Savonnerie de la Licorne (34 Cours Julien) to see how the soap is made.
If soap isn’t your thing, check out the handmade santons, small terra cotta figurines that date back to the 1700s. Jean-Louis Lagnel made the first santons in Marseille during the French Revolution, and they have long been popular Christmas decorations throughout the Provence region. Stop by Santons Escoffier, a little store located at 96 Quai du Port, to buy the perfect souvenir — a beloved memory from your newfound friend, Marseille.
Hanna Snarberg (a Swede) and her partner, Alex (a Ruskie), share their wanderlust on their travel blog, Sam and the Dunes (“Sam” is their lovable pooch).
Related:
- National Geographic Traveler picked Marseille as one of it’s World’s Best Trips 2013.
Related Topics
Go Further
Animals
- This ‘saber-toothed’ salmon wasn’t quite what we thoughtThis ‘saber-toothed’ salmon wasn’t quite what we thought
- Why this rhino-zebra friendship makes perfect senseWhy this rhino-zebra friendship makes perfect sense
- When did bioluminescence evolve? It’s older than we thought.When did bioluminescence evolve? It’s older than we thought.
- Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?
- This pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilienceThis pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilience
Environment
- The world’s historic sites face climate change. Can Petra lead the way?The world’s historic sites face climate change. Can Petra lead the way?
- This pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilienceThis pristine piece of the Amazon shows nature’s resilience
- Listen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting musicListen to 30 years of climate change transformed into haunting music
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
History & Culture
- Meet the original members of the tortured poets departmentMeet the original members of the tortured poets department
- Séances at the White House? Why these first ladies turned to the occultSéances at the White House? Why these first ladies turned to the occult
- Gambling is everywhere now. When is that a problem?Gambling is everywhere now. When is that a problem?
- Beauty is pain—at least it was in 17th-century SpainBeauty is pain—at least it was in 17th-century Spain
Science
- Here's how astronomers found one of the rarest phenomenons in spaceHere's how astronomers found one of the rarest phenomenons in space
- Not an extrovert or introvert? There’s a word for that.Not an extrovert or introvert? There’s a word for that.
- NASA has a plan to clean up space junk—but is going green enough?NASA has a plan to clean up space junk—but is going green enough?
- Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?Soy, skim … spider. Are any of these technically milk?
Travel
- Could Mexico's Chepe Express be the ultimate slow rail adventure?Could Mexico's Chepe Express be the ultimate slow rail adventure?
- What it's like to hike the Camino del Mayab in MexicoWhat it's like to hike the Camino del Mayab in Mexico